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BY DESIGN

New York Times, Sunday, July 30, 2017

Author:
Isaac Mizrahi and David J. Kahn
Editor:
Will Shortz
Blog:
109-Across : Shorten some couture dresses?
TotalDebutCollabs
17/30/20171
SunMonTueWedThuFriSat
1000000
DebutFresh
739%
Isaac Mizrahi
TotalDebutLatestCollabs
1893/15/19944/22/20245
SunMonTueWedThuFriSat
4461426601326
RebusCircleScrabDebutFresh
16241.551,23753%
David J. Kahn

This puzzle:

Rows: 21, Columns: 21 Words: 140, Blocks: 75 Missing: {Q} Puzzle has duplicate clues. This is the debut puzzle for Mr. Mizrahi. This is puzzle # 172 for Mr. Kahn. Jeff Chen's Puzzle of the Week pick. See all the celebrity crosswords. Sunday freshness: 5%
Notepad: To mark the 75th anniversary of the New York Times crossword, which debuted in 1942, we are publishing a series of puzzles co-created by famous people who solve the Times crossword, working together with regular Times puzzle contributors. This collaboration is by the designer and TV host Isaac Mizrahi, together with David J. Kahn, a retired consulting actuary in New York City. This is David's 172nd crossword for The Times. More information about the making of today's puzzle appears in the Times's daily crossword column (nytimes.com/column/wordplay).
Constructor notes:
ISAAC: I've been doing the crossword puzzle in the New York Times since high school (an eternity) and the first time my name was in it my mother called and said: "you've arrived." It's ... read more
Jeff Chen notes:
I'm loving this celebrity series — having a puzzle oriented around that person's profession is so much fun. Today we get Isaac Mizrahi, with theme phrases reinterpreted in kooky, ... read more
Jim Horne notes:

This is Mr. Kahn's fifth collaboration puzzle in the NYT. His first, back in 1998, was one of the most memorable puzzles of the Shortz era.

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J
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E
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© 2017, The New York Times7/30/17 ( No. 24,736 )
Across
1
Little bit : JOT
4
Chickenhearted : TIMID
9
Spur-of-the-moment : SNAP
13
"Word just got out ..." : IHEARD
19
Funny Gasteyer : ANA
20
Offer a thought : OPINE
21
Shakers' movement? : HULA
22
Loren of "Marriage Italian-Style" : SOPHIA
23
Top limit, for short : MAX
24
Flaunt a loose dress at a soiree? : WORKTHENIGHTSHIFT
27
Text changes : EDITS
29
Mideast royal name : SAUD
30
Fair-hiring letters : EOE
31
Vogue rival : ELLE
32
Overstuff : SATE
33
Title of a fashion industry seamstress's tell-all? : ONPINSANDNEEDLES
38
With 53-Across, goethite, e.g. : IRON
39
N.F.C. North rivals of the Bears : LIONS
40
Support under a tank? : BRA
41
"Enrol," for "enroll": Abbr. : VAR
42
Ones who fix toys? : VETS
43
Grub : EATS
44
Flapper wrapper : BOA
45
Ideal : PARAGON
49
Chipper greeting : HIHO
51
Cellphone chip holder : SIMCARD
53
See 38-Across : ORE
54
Personal guide : CREDO
56
What some wrap dresses are? : FITTOBETIED
60
D.C. summer setting : EDT
61
___ pants : HAREM
62
Plot at home, maybe : ACRE
63
Fantasy writer Michael : ENDE
64
"___ who?" : SEZ
65
Exercise with keys : ETUDE
66
Way off base? : JEEP
67
Unwanted pressure : HEAT
69
Bit of a grind : CHORE
71
Get the gold : WIN
72
Author Michael ___ Dyson : ERIC
74
"Frozen" snow queen : ELSA
75
Mars vehicle : ROVER
76
Scatter : SOW
77
Like a model's hairstyle? : CUTANDDRIED
81
Calendario opener : ENERO
82
Argentine article : UNA
83
Northern Indiana county or its seat : LAPORTE
84
Kind of pressure : PEER
85
Souls : PSYCHES
88
French possessive : TES
89
Bundle : PILE
92
Shiner : STAR
95
Boating aid : OAR
96
Civil War inits. : CSA
97
Ding maker : TIMER
98
Kind of street : THRU
99
Takes fashion photos using an unorthodox camera angle? : SHOOTSFROMTHEHIP
104
More limited : LESS
105
"Keep it ___" : REAL
106
Bylaw, briefly : REG
107
Plane-related : AERO
108
N.B.A. notables Korver and Lowry : KYLES
109
Shorten some couture dresses? : TAKEUPACOLLECTION
115
Bach's Partita No. 6 ___ Minor : INE
116
Resistant (to) : AVERSE
117
Swift ending for a bad stage performance : HOOK
118
Chill-inducing, say : EERIE
119
Writer/critic Hentoff : NAT
120
Got the impression : SENSED
121
Uneasy : EDGY
122
Ground breaker : SPADE
123
Chicago rumblers : ELS
Down
1
Last Scottish king to die in battle : JAMESIV
2
How you might do something dumb : ONADARE
3
Preferred means of arriving at a fashion show? : TAXITOTHERUNWAY
4
Some rescues : TOWS
5
Subj. for CNBC : IPO
6
Putin's peace : MIR
7
Stain that's hard to remove : INKSPOT
8
Keeps from proceeding : DETAINS
9
Loses : SHEDS
10
Order member : NUN
11
Klingons, e.g. : ALIENRACE
12
Tower with many eaves : PAGODA
13
Suffix with 105-Across : IST
14
Christmas threesome : HOS
15
Banned supplement : EPHEDRA
16
Not worth ___ of beans : AHILL
17
Go through : RIFLE
18
Historical trivia : DATES
25
Vandals : HUNS
26
___ party : HEN
28
Decagonal : TENSIDED
33
A butter alternative : OLEO
34
Actress Vardalos : NIA
35
Little Boy, e.g., informally : ABOMB
36
Got out of : EVADED
37
Stud site : EAR
44
Dust jacket part, usually : BIO
45
Revenue source for a magazine : PRINTAD
46
Inspects a fashion designer's offerings? : GOESOVERTHELINE
47
One who says "I'd like to have ..." : ORDERER
48
AOL alternative : NETZERO
50
Food prep class at school : HOMEEC
51
Very short climb : STEP
52
Chilling, so to speak : ATEASE
54
Ruins as a dog might : CHEWSUP
55
Food in the field : RATIONS
56
Cantina treats : FAJITAS
57
Top of the world : ICECAP
58
Quattro minus uno : TRE
59
Edict : DECREE
67
"Take it!" : HERE
68
Nutmeg State collegian : ELI
70
Cry of exasperation : HONESTLY
73
Warlords, e.g. : RULERS
78
Medium-to-poor : NOTSOGOOD
79
Ideal : DREAM
80
Drunk's problem : DTS
84
Cop's target : PERP
86
Cans : COOLERS
87
One may be tipped : HAT
89
Goes through : PIERCES
90
Creator of an ancient pyramid scheme? : IMHOTEP
91
Ring around the collar : LEI
93
Place for cannons : ARSENAL
94
Winter apples : RUSSETS
96
Holiday scene : CRECHE
97
You, once : THEE
99
Some Latinas: Abbr. : SRTAS
100
Pitch : HEAVE
101
Like some floors : OAKEN
102
Order member : FRA
103
Long-winded : TALKY
108
Leg bender : KNEE
110
Advantage : USE
111
___ Xing : PED
112
Put in, as hours : LOG
113
Glass on public radio : IRA
114
Suffix with fact : OID

Answer summary:
6 unique to this puzzle, 1 debuted here and reused later, 2 unique to Modern Era but used previously.

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